Installing ground spots in the garden or on your terrace requires some caution. Floor uplighting has to be installed in such a manner that it is protected against moisture from the outside.
Especially the connection between the ground spot and the power has to be 100% watertight.
The first important aspect is the protection class of your floor uplighting. If you want to install them outside, they'll have to be protected against water and dust.
The grade of protection is indicated with an IP-value (International Protection). This value has two digits, the first being the protection against solids, the second is the protection against water and moisture.
Since ground spots are installed in a pretty vulnerable place in the soil, it's best to always respect a minimal IP-value of 68.
Sometimes water still reaches the inside of the floor uplighters. This could happen for various reasons.
Light always needs a surface to reflect it. Take the moon, for example, which we can only perceive thanks to the reflection of the sun’s light. This is the same for ground spots. If you shine a light into the air, it will have little or no effect. So always make sure that the light can reflect off an object, such as your home or a tree.
Ground spots always have a lot to endure. That's why it's best to install them in a well draining subsoil.
For your ground spots to work, it has to be connected to the power. This connection needs extra protection against moisture.
The safest way to do this, is to make the connection inside the junction box and fill this up with resin. The casting resin will keep your connection and your floor uplighter completely free of water.
Making your connection in watertight connectors with swivels is another possibility. However, this option is less safe. Chances are that water will still find its way.
The cable of the ground spot runs to the junction box in which you make the connection. Through an EXVB cable the ground spot is subsequently connected to the mains. The EXVB cable has to be placed inside a TPC10 pipe into the ground. In the junction box you can also make a branch in order to provide current to different spots.
Once the connection in the junction box is made and you've tested your spots multiple times, you can fill the junction box with resin.
Mix the resin components and fill up the junction box to the edge, so that all cables and connectors are completely immersed.
The resin takes about 15 minutes to dry out. Always use the included gloves when working with cast resin.
Attention: Don't forget to test your spots before casting the resin. Once the resin is solidified, you can't make anymore changes to your connection!
The cable used for connecting ground spots has to be a watertight, rubber kabel (eg.: CTMB 3G1.5).
A flexible, rubber cable is much easier to seal off against water. When the swivel of the ground spot is fastened to the cable, the rubber cable sheath will function as a grommet.
Nowadays, the cable will often be already attached to the ground spot. In this case, you don't need a separate cable.
Caution: if there's a cable attached to the ground spot, don't remove it! By doing this, you'll lose your warranty.
If you suspect that water has entered the cable, you can cut the cable open to check this.
The ground spot's CTMB cable contains a white powder underneath its isolation layer, which is evenly spread around the cable. If you cut the cable open and notice that the powder has clotted, isn't evenly distributed or has little lumps in it, this means water has reached the inside of the cable.
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